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Rianni & Nina, Schumacher, IVANMAN, Malaika Raiss, Marina Hoermanseder

Berlin Fashion Week SS2018 - The Review

Berlin, July 2017 – it is time for the next "Berlin Fashion Week", a lot of things will change this season, everybody is speaking about a new start, the hopes are big, the worries too. It seems as if a new fresh wind would blow, which should once again force into the fashion week.

While many designers have decided to not have a show this season such as Nobi Talai or Perret Schaad and used the Der Berliner Mode Salon group exhibition for the presentation of their latest collections, other important German fashion brands also came back - above all BOSS. On the third day of Fashion Week, they presented their exclusive Womenswear Gallery Collection by Christiane Arp & Jason Wu, where the top league of the German fashion industry met. Der Berliner Mode Salon was also very happy, which has now taken over the role of the old fashion week tent and presents finely selected designers in small circles with defiles and presentations.

But apart from the whole upheaval atmosphere, nobody should forget why we are visiting the Berlin Fashion Week: to look at the latest summer collections for summer 2018. It is difficult, as after all Fashion Weeks, to speak internationally of a trend movement - because today everything can be worn.

William Fan is a perfect example of a young talented man who is more likely to realize his vision and listen to his feelings than let himself be inspired by prescriptions. With his 90s Back Pop generation collection, he absolutely met the audience's time, who not only celebrated the gorgeous colorful and beautiful all-over denim looks with metallic and silver elements, but also happily waved to the pop songs and were happy about models with "Nick Carter" hair cuts. Fashion is not only about being beautiful, but also to entertain, and no one did it better than William Fan this season, with a complete staging in a perfect mix.

But not only Fan jumped on the "entertainer" train. Antonia Goy made the models dance wildly around, acted with the audience, distributed kisses and posing for selfies according to the social media hype, which is now bigger than ever, you can note on the front rows full of influencer. Great for the fun factor, but who could still remember the fashion remains questionable.

Colors, colors and colors have been particularly important in the last season and will continue to be a major theme in the Spring/Summer 2018. It can be popping and striking, pastel almost disappears from the collections and when, they are mixed with contrasting colors or patterns. In addition, extravagant forms, draping, knotting, details like buckles, double-twisted belts and much more will play a great role in summer 2018. Simple is boring. Everything may be worn differently, as it is not, but should be worn. This was also seen at Marina Hoermanseder, which brought in a wide variety of elements in her collection, from fluttering flouncing coats on bikini summer looks and leather robes with giant belt buckles.

The niche label Rianna & Nina, which has been known for its magical fashion from vintage fabrics already a long time in Berlin, showed for the first time at the Berlin fashion salon. For the premiere they presented, as never before, specially produced fabrics, which were combined to great colorful outfits and all during a cozy garden party in the Kronprinzenpalais. Dawid Tomaszeswki was not far away on a roof terrace with a view over Berlin Mitte and showed the nakedest collection of this fashion week. Nipple patches and half-covered breasts, wherever you looked. In addition to this, there are many styling and looks with patches, shimmering, draping and embroidery, but they are very modern and cool - not romantic.

Romance is also all in all straight OUT. "In your face" fashion is IN. If you want to look romantic and sweet then obviously and with great LOVE prints. Just for self-confident women and men with Fashion braveness. If you do not trust anything next summer, unfortunately, you are out the line, because fashion wants to let it crash, put statements and take all and everything with you.

Therefore many different elements are combined. Layering is a huge topic, from Gaucho parts composed with stringy stripe patterns, over Bra's worn on shirt and tops. There is no limit for creativity, everything that goes, you can also wear, whether one on top of the other, as you could see at Schumacher. You think it might not fit, but then you are enthusiastic about what you can bring together.

Jeans will be more important than ever in the summer of 2018, so the circle closes with the 90s trend. Talbot Runhof presented a collection in Der Berliner Mode Salon that almost exclusively consists of the denim fabric and that as a noble evening gown, not basic and not typical. Also flower patterns are to be found as all-over next summer. Malaika Raiss showed here particularly beautiful one, which desire for more summer and sun.

On the side of the menswear fashion, it became even more daring and more colorful. Particularly IVANMAN with corset-like lacing for accents and concentrates mainly in royal blue. Inspired by the artist Joseph Beuys, IVANMAN shows a skilfully sent worker's look for the gentlemen. The menswear label Brachmann also celebrated a debut at this fashion week and presented for the first time womenswear, which does not imitate the men's collection in their tailor-made quality and androgyny.

As a conclusion of the Berlin Fashion Week it remains to say that despite many fears, what could happen after a lot of changes the last seasons and how it goes on, all were again showing the best of it. The brands from Germany have proved that they can be inspiring as always. New concepts, new ideas, revivals and no stagnation were heard, especially thanks to the work of the Fashion Council Germany in cooperation with the Senate for Economics, Energy and Enterprises. More than ever before, the visitors are looking for fashion "made in Germany" and coming directly from the international market to Berlin to see what the creative city is producing, as the designers are more daring and determined than ever before.

 

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